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20/07/09

Young man on a mission...

Young gun Bob Hickish has had an extraordinary summer so far. Following on from his new 8a+ from last month(Fuel My Fire), Bob has repeated some of Dorsets most sought after routes. Freaky Ralph(F8a+), King of the Swingers(F7c+ DWS), Haka Pera Peru (F8a) Palace of the Brine (F8a+, second ascent), Event Horizon (F8a+, second ascent), Adrenochrome (F8a, DWS) and Hells Darker Chambers (F8a) have all fallen to the irrepressible Hickish in the last month. Bob even found time to fit in another new route, in the shape of Skullthuggery(F7c+) in a deep water foray at Lulworth. His attentions are now said to be concentrated on completing the second ascent of Lifeforce(F8b) at Fishermans Ledge, and , once the bird ban period is over, repeating Infinite Gravity(F8a+).

Access News: It has been reported that a pair of Peregrine falcons have nested at the Drag Racing Underground area of Blacknor North. Please avoid these routes until the end July.

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05/06/09

New Swanage 8a+...

Dorset local Bob Hickish has climbed a new 8a+ at Unknown Ledge. This route has a chequered history. The blank face was originally bolted by Pete Oxley outside of the Dorset Bolt Agreement, and at a public meeting it was agreed that the bolts should be removed and the rock returned to its original state. The belay bolts were then subsequently hammered flat and the first two bolts removed by persons unknown. It remains to be seen whether the bolts will remain this time around.

On the repeat ascent front Southampton based Martin Krasnansky has been particularly busy, culminating in the third ascent of Vespasian at Coastguard South. Watch this space!

In other new route news the Portland's-own 'dynamic-duo' have been in action again! Not content with creating Portland's most popular crag(the Bower), John Leonard and Mick Ward have turned their collective energies towards Battleship cliff. Art for Art's Sake , F7a+, climbs the attractive wall left of Judge Jefferies, starting up that route. John later added two line further right. Pyramid, F6b+, and April Skies, F4 offer good climbing on clean rock. The first ascent of Pyramid was the subject of some controversy in that unknown persons removed the tape (new bolted routes in Dorset are marked by finger tape on the first bolt until they are climbed by the bolter or offered up as an open project). Once the tape was removed the route was ascended by several unaware parties during the week. When John returned at the weekend he was dismayed to find that the route he had spent hours creating had become a trade route. Whilst this could be seen in some ways as a validation of the quality of the climb, climbers are urged to respect the considerable efforts of first ascentionists. On a more positive note Mick and John cleaned up the remaining projects at the Bower, with the 18m 'Voices in the Bower', F3, being a particularly attractive addition.

A topo of the Bower is now available here ( thanks to John Leonard).

Climbers should be aware that there has been a recurrence of children throwing items from the cliff-top at the Blacknor cliffs as well as a thefts of climbing equipment. In one incident climbers were directly targeted with rocks. Any further incidences should be reported to the police before a tragedy occurs.

The Dorset Bolt Fund.

Observant visitors will notice that there is now a link to a Dorset Bolt Fund page at the top of this page. This page was created after a number of users of UKClimbing.com expressed an interest in making a donation to the retro-bolting efforts in Dorset. Visit this page if you want to help enhance and maintain our sport climbs - its now quick and easy with a Pay Pal account. Developments this year have indicated that the efforts of the Bolt Fund will begin to switch from retro-bolting climbs originally done on dubious protection to replacing worn out staples. An early indication of the work that may be required is the failure of two staples this year and the imminent failure of the second staple on 'the Price of Silence' at Battleship Back Cliff. DCWEB will also soon have a facility where users can of report bolt failures or visible deterioration to fixed gear on routes – watch this space!

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03/02/09

Infinite Gravity repeated...

Big news over the winter is the appearance of northern raider, Gaz Parry who made two significant repeats. Firstly at Dancing Ledge, Gaz took advantage of the recently re-bolted climbs on the lower tier with quick-fire repeats of Hells Darker Chamber(F8a) and Legendary Shadows(F7c). Gaz found them both to be F7c+. Inspired by these routes, Andy Long and Gaz went on to retro-bolt and subsequently redpoint Infinite Gravity( F8a+) at Blackers Hole. Gaz enthused that “"Infinite Gravity is without doubt the best route at this grade in the UK and in fact as good as any route of its style in France or Spain. “ The potential for new lines at this crag is huge, with several strong lines beckoning...watch this space!Check out Gaz' blog for more details.

Most of the activity over the last few months has been concentrated on the East coast of Portland, with 3 new crags being developed. First to get going was Tom Beaumont, who has developed the short crag that is right of the Road Rage wall at Cheyne Weares. These routes are accessed via a fixed rope up the tottering scree slopes, or from abseil bolts on the top of the crag. On the left is 'Italian Eight', F6b+. To the right is the thin crack of 'Threatening Speedos', F6c+, and the flowstone arete is 'Pouch of Douglas', F5 and right again is 'Bariatric', F4.

Not to be outdone, that intrepid duo of Portland locals John Leonard and Mick Ward tackled the intriguing pinnacle of Nickodemus' Knob. The Knob can be found about 1km north of The Cuttings. From right to left the routes are: 'Wild Rover', F6a (J Leonard), 'Nick O' Demus', F6a (M Ward), 'Big Wall Dreams', (J Leonard), F6a+ and finally 'Nick's Bulge', F6b(M Ward). This pair then focused their collective energies on the Cuttings( this winter they have been so productive that they been dubbed the 'Lennon and McCartney' of Portland climbing!). Mick added the technical groove of 'Levitation by Proxy', F6c, to the right of Knockout Punch, then the pair adopted a 'buy-one-get-one-free' approach to the next projects. A single line of bolts protect 'Finesse', F7a+ ( the arete right of Levitation by Proxy)and, right again the left side of the lay-back groove is 'Hidden Treasure', F5+. Development then shifted to the Cuttings lower tier( to the right of the existing line of 'Round the Bend'. The fine central groove yielded an aptly named F6a, 'Winter Sun' (J Leonard), and the easier line to the right is 'Time out of Mind', F5(M Ward). While climbing these routes, the secluded bay to the left attracted their attention. After a good deal of work a worthwhile venue, dubbed the Bower, has emerged, with a sunny sheltered aspect and accommodating routes. At the time of writing some of the lines are unclimbed, please respect these. Described from left the first two lines are projects, then the initial corner is 'Suntrap', F3 (M Ward), the arete is 'Tinkerbell', F5+ (M Ward), the groove right again is 'Far From The Madding Crowd', F5(J Leonard). He harder line to the right is still a project. The prominent corner line is 'Godbeams', F4 (J Leonard), while the airy-looking right arete is a project.

Also on the East Coast, Ben Stokes continued to find new problems in the boulderfield. The 'Staunch Bro' boulder is a newly-uncovered boulder at the southern end of the boulderfield, visible from the Cuttings approach before you reach the New Cuttings. 5 new problems were added, with the full details available here.

Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor found a window in the autumnal weather to plug some of the more glaring gaps at the Amphitheater Roofs. A so-called 'warm up' gave the thin roof crack of 'Mankini Biscuit', E2 5b. The corner right of the 'Mojo-Pin' slab yielded a fine sustained and delicate E2 5c, in the shape of 'Mansion Pond'.

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16/09/08

New Portland Guidebook...

Well, this news report has been long overdue, but in all honesty this has been a period of unparalleled inactivity! Big news this month though is the publication of the long-awaited Climbers Club guide to Portland, by Steve Taylor. A full review will follow soon, but initial viewing's suggest that Steve and fellow writers Ben Stokes and Jimbo Kimber have done Portland proud, with a user-friendly (a first for the CC!), readable and visually compelling guide.

The prize for the first person to put the new guide out of date goes to Bob Hickish, who completed 'Shape Shifter', F7c on Battleship Back Cliff . In the wake of the 'Cuttings clear-up' the Cuttings seems to be attracting more attention from the Portland mafia, who have added a number of short new routes in the Leer of Beethoven area, such as 'Bun Fight at the Portland Corral', F5, 'Pop for the Top', F6c, 'Happy Slabber', F4 and 'Limbo Dancer', F5. All routes courtesy of John Leonard, Mick Ward and Jon Howell. Around the corner Steve Taylor added to the number of short easy climbs with 'Tantrums and Tiaras', F4, 'Chicken boy', 'Baron's Revenge' and '100 Sunny Days',(all F3's). Inevitably these routes are going to be very popular! New-cliff-on-the-block, Sharbutts Quarry, begins to approach maturity with three new routes in the shape of 'Meatjam', F6a (Tom Beaumont), 'Sunseeker', F2, (John Leonard) and 'Sunny Side Up', F5, (Josh Leonard). Oddly this crag does not make it into the new CC guide.

The list of Portland first female ascents looked to have been supplemented by Meillee Rafe's ascent of 'Birthday Girl', but unfortunately the line climbed was deemed to be a little too close to that taken by the trad route 'Bag End'. Needless to say the sport version avoids the ugly chimney completely and gives a fine F5+. In a similar vein, Rob Kennard bolted a line in the Gorilla Tactics area of Winspit area, only to discover that it had been climbed by Steve Newman and Scott Titt as a trad route. Apologies have been accepted, and the first ascentionists have gracefully allowed the bolts to remain to give 'Birthday Treat', F5+. Scott has also added some contemporary lines at the same venue, with 'Warm Love', F6a (right of the 'Skin Room') and as as-yet un-named 6c at the entrance to the west quarry. Rob Kennard has added another 'in-filler' to the right of 'Chrissy'. 'Chick Power', F7b, is sure to be popular with the bouldering fraternity, with a boulder-problem crux(V7) and overhead protection! Rob also added a new 7b to the Promenade, aided and abetted by Rich White and Bernard Exley. 'Air of Detachment' is a quality aerial excursion over the roof of 'Crimes Against the Soul'.

Winspit has been the scene of several altercations over the last couple of months, with the owners of the West Quarry taking issue with large groups using the un-named easy climbs and large camping parties leaving rubbish. In order to ensure continued access to this crag please do not take instructed groups to this crag( individual climbers are still tolerated). Obviously the majority of the people who camp and de-foul this venue are unlikely to be climbers, but unfortunately we are likely to be collectively 'tarred-with-the same-brush'. For that reason it may be worth mentioning to anyone seen camping here that they are likely to be unceremoniously moved on!

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02/04/08

Neddyfields to be quarried...

John Leonard (a Portland resident and local new route activist) writes: "Stone Firms Ltd have informed Dorset County Council that it intends to start the first phase of quarrying of the coastal strip between Southwell and Portland Bill. This is the section of land between the Portland Bill road and the eastern cliff tops extending from Neddyfields to the old lower lighthouse. The cliffs here include popular bouldering, a wide range of sports climbs and the most important deep-water soloing area on Portland. Although the actual climbs themselves are unlikely to be affected (with the possible exception of the Neddyfields bouldering wall) the scale of the open cast quarrying will decimate this environmentally important site (SSSI with important geology, archaeology, flora and fauna). It will no longer be a pleasant play area for our outdoor activities whether we are climbers or one of the many other recreational users of this coast.

Stone Firms Ltd are able to do this under recently bought planning permissions granted in 1951 and what is particularly worrying is that they intend to start work on the first phase (see plans in the Southwell Action Teams web site: www.saveportlandcoastalstrip.org.uk/sign_epetition.html ) in May, in fact some site work has already begun in the section above the Neddyfields bouldering wall. The only powers able to prevent this are central government, withdrawing the 1951 permissions, hence the Southwell Action Team have set up an e-petition direct to the government on their site. Time is very much of the essence and the government are only likely to act if enough pressure is brought to bear.

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