Resumé | Pete Oxley
| Born_ | 04.04.1966, Potters Bar, North London. Moved to Corfe Mullen Dorset aged 11 |
| Famiy_ | Youngest of four brothers |
| Partner_ | Jan Rostron: together for 15 years |
| Age_Height_Weight | 42_6’ 4”_95kg! |
| Occupation_ | Graphic designer ( Ratio: design ) Climbing wall builder and designer ( Infinite Gravity ) |
| Achievements | 2003 BA First class honours in Graphic Design from The Arts Institute at Bournemouth. Longest serving reporter for OTE over 17 years! Three guides for Rockfax in Dorset. One of the foremost new route pioneers in UK, over 800 to my name! One of the best SW climbers in 80’s and 90’s. Specialist area roof climbing! I have put up some of the largest roofs in UK! One of the first to establish grade 8 climbs in the South. First to DWS 7c in UK and develop that aspect of the sport to a high level. Biggest area of success main developer of Portland as a climbing area, 1000’s of bolts placed! Introduction and development of the Stainless steel staple in to the UK. |
| Started climbing_ | Aged 14 Trained on local bridge virtually every day for two years getting to E5 6c! Aged 15 First lead VS at Cattle Troughs, Swanage |
| First New Route_ | Aged 16: Two Fingers E1 5c at The Cuttings. |
| New routes total_ | Circa 800 trad, sport and DWS many boulder problems. Only Gibson, Crocker and Littlejohn have done more in UK! |
| Hardest trad_ | E8, Laughing Arthur ( largest free roof in UK, unrepeated ). E8 Infinite Gravity ( mixed sport and trad ). 20+ E7’s Including: Monsters of Rock E7 6b 6b (Flashed) Godfodder E7 6c Street Fighting Years E7 6c 6b 6a Vapour Trail E7 6b Jesus Wept E7 6b Flashed, Gower Divine Guiding Light E7 6b 2nd ascent Gower Critics Choice E7 6b 1st bolt free ascent Breaking The Habit E7 6c 1st bolt free ascent Boss Hogg E7 6b Strawberries E7 6b near OS Numerous E6 O/S on all rock types, including grit |
| Hardest Sport_ | 8b Life Force ( autumn 2005the largest sport overhang in UK ) 8a+/8b Palace of the Brine ( unrepeated ) 8a+ Vespasian 30+ 8a and 8a+ routes all over UK / abroad including: 11 grade 8 new climbs in Dorset 2 grade 8 new climbs at Cheddar Several 8a’s 1st try Others in UK_ Zoolook, Raindogs, Subculture, In brine, Disillusioned Glue Machine, Will Stanton ( 2nd ascent ), Cider Soak 3rd ascent, Statement, Mussel Beach, Over the Moon, and various others. |
| Hardest OS_ | Red Snapper and chips 7c Split Rock Unknown 7c Volx |
| Hardest DWS_ | Numerous E6’s at Swanage. Sport solos: Mark of the beast, Lord Of Darkness both 7c |
| Hardest bouldering_ | Many new problems in Dorset up to V9/10. Ride the Lightening still unrepeated. |
| Best Competition_ | Birmingham 91’: 5th British Open, 23 rd in World Cup, Yorkshire Open 89’ 9th. |
| Full time Climbing_ | On and off from 18 – 35 First dedicated rock athlete in Dorset! |
| Training_ | Board in Garage, huge sessions shunting outside up to 7c. Fun times with Wharfedale Rd boards built in Bournemouth. |
| Climbing achievements_ | Creation of Portland as best mixed sport venue in UK Huge new route output at Swanage including some huge roofs. Establishing new levels for Dorset: 1st E7, E8, 1st 7b – 8b, 1st hard boulder problems V5-V9 1st O/S of 7b & 7b+ in Dorset and in Devon ( ie: Empire, The Lynch ) Many second ascents of hardest climbs in Cheddar, Avon, Ansteys, South Wales. 1* hard DWS up to 7c. |
| Biggest regret_ | Not leading New Statesman after clean TR shortly after Dunnes ascent Bolting Big Issue ( although what a sport route it was! ) Not finishing Tuppence, Fishermans tale or Chouca oh so close on all three! Not bagging final project at Swanage but I will return! |
| Today_ | Moved to New Zealand in April 07! Developing new design business. Searching out new crags Training again to climb grade eight after a big lay off Travel more |
| Dedications_ | I would like to pay tribute to two good friends that have shifted off their mortal coil, namely Brian Tillley and Damian Cook. Likewise I would like to remember my parents without their love and support none of it would have been possible. To the Dorset crew who kept the faith over the years and gave so many fun days out. Finally I pay tribute to Jan who somehow has put up with all my obsessional behaviour over the years! |
