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The Word - News in Detail

05/06/09

New Swanage 8a+...

Image of Bob Hickish climbing his new route, Fuel My Fire at Unknown Ledge, Swanage

Bob Hickish climbing his new route, Fuel My Fire at Unknown Ledge.
Photo: Gav Symonds

Dorset local Bob Hickish has climbed a new 8a+ at Unknown Ledge. This route has a chequered history. The blank face was originally bolted by Pete Oxley outside of the Dorset Bolt Agreement, and at a public meeting it was agreed that the bolts should be removed and the rock returned to its original state. The belay bolts were then subsequently hammered flat and the first two bolts removed by persons unknown. It remains to be seen whether the bolts will remain this time around.

On the repeat ascent front Southampton based Martin Krasnansky has been particularly busy, culminating in the third ascent of Vespasian at Coastguard South. Watch this space!

In other new route news the Portland's-own 'dynamic-duo' have been in action again! Not content with creating Portland's most popular crag(the Bower), John Leonard and Mick Ward have turned their collective energies towards Battleship cliff. Art for Art's Sake , F7a+, climbs the attractive wall left of Judge Jefferies, starting up that route. John later added two line further right. Pyramid, F6b+, and April Skies, F4 offer good climbing on clean rock. The first ascent of Pyramid was the subject of some controversy in that unknown persons removed the tape (new bolted routes in Dorset are marked by finger tape on the first bolt until they are climbed by the bolter or offered up as an open project). Once the tape was removed the route was ascended by several unaware parties during the week. When John returned at the weekend he was dismayed to find that the route he had spent hours creating had become a trade route. Whilst this could be seen in some ways as a validation of the quality of the climb, climbers are urged to respect the considerable efforts of first ascentionists. On a more positive note Mick and John cleaned up the remaining projects at the Bower, with the 18m 'Voices in the Bower', F3, being a particularly attractive addition.

A topo of the Bower is now available here ( thanks to John Leonard).

Climbers should be aware that there has been a recurrence of children throwing items from the cliff-top at the Blacknor cliffs as well as a thefts of climbing equipment. In one incident climbers were directly targeted with rocks. Any further incidences should be reported to the police before a tragedy occurs.

click here to donate to the dorset bolt fund

The Dorset Bolt Fund.

Observant visitors will notice that there is now a link to a Dorset Bolt Fund page at the top of this page. This page was created after a number of users of UKClimbing.com expressed an interest in making a donation to the retro-bolting efforts in Dorset. Visit this page if you want to help enhance and maintain our sport climbs - its now quick and easy with a Pay Pal account. Developments this year have indicated that the efforts of the Bolt Fund will begin to switch from retro-bolting climbs originally done on dubious protection to replacing worn out staples. An early indication of the work that may be required is the failure of two staples this year and the imminent failure of the second staple on 'the Price of Silence' at Battleship Back Cliff. DCWEB will also soon have a facility where users can of report bolt failures or visible deterioration to fixed gear on routes – watch this space!

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