03/02/09

Infinite Gravity repeated...

Big news over the winter is the appearance of northern raider, Gaz Parry who made two significant repeats. Firstly at Dancing Ledge, Gaz took advantage of the recently re-bolted climbs on the lower tier with quick-fire repeats of Hells Darker Chamber(F8a) and Legendary Shadows(F7c). Gaz found them both to be F7c+. Inspired by these routes, Andy Long and Gaz went on to retro-bolt and subsequently redpoint Infinite Gravity( F8a+) at Blackers Hole. Gaz enthused that “"Infinite Gravity is without doubt the best route at this grade in the UK and in fact as good as any route of its style in France or Spain. “ The potential for new lines at this crag is huge, with several strong lines beckoning...watch this space!Check out Gaz' blog for more details.

Most of the activity over the last few months has been concentrated on the East coast of Portland, with 3 new crags being developed. First to get going was Tom Beaumont, who has developed the short crag that is right of the Road Rage wall at Cheyne Weares. These routes are accessed via a fixed rope up the tottering scree slopes, or from abseil bolts on the top of the crag. On the left is 'Italian Eight', F6b+. To the right is the thin crack of 'Threatening Speedos', F6c+, and the flowstone arete is 'Pouch of Douglas', F5 and right again is 'Bariatric', F4.

Not to be outdone, that intrepid duo of Portland locals John Leonard and Mick Ward tackled the intriguing pinnacle of Nickodemus' Knob. The Knob can be found about 1km north of The Cuttings. From right to left the routes are: 'Wild Rover', F6a (J Leonard), 'Nick O' Demus', F6a (M Ward), 'Big Wall Dreams', (J Leonard), F6a+ and finally 'Nick's Bulge', F6b(M Ward). This pair then focused their collective energies on the Cuttings( this winter they have been so productive that they been dubbed the 'Lennon and McCartney' of Portland climbing!). Mick added the technical groove of 'Levitation by Proxy', F6c, to the right of Knockout Punch, then the pair adopted a 'buy-one-get-one-free' approach to the next projects. A single line of bolts protect 'Finesse', F7a+ ( the arete right of Levitation by Proxy)and, right again the left side of the lay-back groove is 'Hidden Treasure', F5+. Development then shifted to the Cuttings lower tier( to the right of the existing line of 'Round the Bend'. The fine central groove yielded an aptly named F6a, 'Winter Sun' (J Leonard), and the easier line to the right is 'Time out of Mind', F5(M Ward). While climbing these routes, the secluded bay to the left attracted their attention. After a good deal of work a worthwhile venue, dubbed the Bower, has emerged, with a sunny sheltered aspect and accommodating routes. At the time of writing some of the lines are unclimbed, please respect these. Described from left the first two lines are projects, then the initial corner is 'Suntrap', F3 (M Ward), the arete is 'Tinkerbell', F5+ (M Ward), the groove right again is 'Far From The Madding Crowd', F5(J Leonard). He harder line to the right is still a project. The prominent corner line is 'Godbeams', F4 (J Leonard), while the airy-looking right arete is a project.

Also on the East Coast, Ben Stokes continued to find new problems in the boulderfield. The 'Staunch Bro' boulder is a newly-uncovered boulder at the southern end of the boulderfield, visible from the Cuttings approach before you reach the New Cuttings. 5 new problems were added, with the full details available here.

Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor found a window in the autumnal weather to plug some of the more glaring gaps at the Amphitheater Roofs. A so-called 'warm up' gave the thin roof crack of 'Mankini Biscuit', E2 5b. The corner right of the 'Mojo-Pin' slab yielded a fine sustained and delicate E2 5c, in the shape of 'Mansion Pond'.