25/02/08
New Quarry on Portland...
Welcome back - normal service will now be resumed!
The climbers and walkers car-park above Blacknor will be closed for the next three weeks, (hopefully it will open again in time for Easter) due to building work going on nearby. Provisions are included in the building work for a larger climbers and walkers carpark, so it will pay to be considerate to the locals and builders in the mean time.
Visitors to the Cuttings will find greater exposure to the winter sun this spring, thanks to the BMC sponsored crag cleanup. A large amount of ivy was removed from the crag, as well as the ever advancing buddleia's which have recently taken over over at the foot of the cliff. Marti Hallet took the opportunity of a bit of ivy bashing to uncover 'Quality Family Time', F4 and 'True Love', F6b+, which are both worthy additions apparently.
Rhys Jones on the summit of Everest
Matt Ridgway on the first ascent of
'I thought you had it', F6c+, Winspit.
The Big news on the other side of the island is the development of Sharbutts Quarry, on the approach to Blacknor Central, developed over the winter by Steve Muncaster, Mick Ward, Tom Beaumont and Josh Leonard. Whilst diminutive, these routes pack in some quality flowstone climbing, and are sure to be very popular(with probably the shortest walk-in of all Dorset crags!). Tom Beaumont has produced a topo that can be seen here>> ( a downloadable pdf topo should be available soon). Tom has also been active at Dungecroft quarry, where a couple of new lines and boulder problems have been added. Once again, Tom has kindly updated his topo, and is available here>>.
After procuring bolts from the BMC retro-bolting fund, the re-equipping of the Promenade has begun. Currently Crimes Against the Soul, Seppukko(F6b+), Chicago Peace(F6c) and J.J Burnell( F6a) have been equipped.
The happy hunting ground of Winspit has yielded more new routes this winter. Scott Titt has been busy in the west quarry, climbing an as yet unnamed F6a right of 'The Skin Room'. The much fancied groove left of Resin Devotion has been anonymously bolted to give a worthwhile F4+ in addition to the eliminate line to the left which goes at f6a/6a+ (Dependant on the line taken). Both routes are as yet unnamed, and the bolting itself leaves something to be desired. On the same wall Rob Kennard and Matt Ridgway added the crack and grooved arete left of 'Gallows Gore' at F6c+. Marti Hallet also found a surprisingly worthwhile line on the extreme left end of the quarryman face to give 'Free Entreprises', F6a.
Bournemouth University have completed the twice yearly re-routing and hold cleaning operation. There are now 35 routes between F3 and F7a+. Also at Bournemouth Hot Rocks wall, is the forthcoming lecture by youngest ever 'seven-summiter' Rhys Jones. The lecture is on Thursday 6th March 2008, 7:30pm- 9pm. Tickets are £6 for students, £8 for the general public( Contact: mtaylerson@hotmail.com)
It seems like a long time ago, but for those that missed it, local climber Mike Robertson staged a protest against the multinational oil corporation's interests in Burma, by free soloing the Eiffel Tower. Just check out the hair-raising YouTube video on the right!
