21/06/07

8a solo!

Gav Symonds defied an angry sea to make the first solo ascent(and probably the only repeat to date) of 'Balance of Power' (F8a) at White Hole, Portland. After working the route, Gav was confident that the technical and sequency wall climb would make a reasonably safe deep-water solo, however on the evening of the ascent conditions were less than ideal. A large swell meant that the ledges below the climb were periodically exposed, and Gav was forced to try and time his ascent between the 'sets' of waves. Fortunately Gav completed the climb safely, but managed to give his onlooking climbing-partner, Andy Long some worrying moments!

Tom Beaumont has continued to develop the Dungecroft quarry, with addition of 4 more 'short-but-sweet' routes. Tom has produced a topo of the new climbs which can be viewed here>>

The new, expanded,
Calshot Climbing Wall

Also on the new routing front, Steve Taylor has begun developing a new sector to the south of Godnor Far South. Climbed in a single day by Steve and friends, the crag has so far yielded 'Enter Shikari'(F6b), the photogenic 'The Good Life'(F6a), the cruxy 'Euphemism' (F6b) and 'Small but Perfectly Formed'(F6a). Over at Blacknor North Steve also added the future-classic 'The Taylor Show'(F6a). Prospective ascentionists should note that the initial wall requires the negotiation of a very dirty section, but the upper wall is of good quality. Also at Blacknor North Andy Long has added a companion route to 'French Connection UK', which shares a common start and then veers leftwards once over the overhang. 'Popeye Doyle' is a fine F7b+ with a pocket-pulling crux.

Calshot climbing wall has recently undergone a major enhancement, with the climbing area nearly doubling in size to 1100 square metres. The new wall surface has 100 routes, 2,300 brand-new new holds and a 14m overhang. Read more here...