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The Dorset New Routes Directory

Route Name Grade First Ascentionist Crag Description Date Climbed Comments
Time and Tide F4+ Mick Ward Lighthouse Area The surprisingly awkward groove right of the arete from "The Dog's Bollocks". September 11th 2011 Add/View Comments
Time and Tide F4+ Mick Ward Lighthouse Area The surprisingly awkward groove right of the arete from "The Dog's Bollocks". September 11th 2011 Add/View Comments
The Dog's Bollocks F6a John Leonard Lighthouse Area Intricate moves on the wall to the left of the right arête of Dog Rock. September 10th 2011 Add/View Comments
Matt's Dilemma F3 Traditional Lighthouse Area The six metre sea stack in the middle in the Sector Pom Pom cove, known to locals as Dog Rock, clear from mid tide but beware a big swell. The line by the left-hand arete. Named for Matt and all those who soloed to the top this way and got stuck. September 9th 2011 Add/View Comments
Games Without Frontiers F4 Mick Ward Lighthouse Area The six metre sea stack in the middle in the Sector Pom Pom cove, known to locals as Dog Rock, clear from mid tide but beware a big swell. The second route from the left. A faint groove, climb left of the bolts, then move back right to the lower-off. September 9th 2011 Add/View Comments
The Aquatic Ape E6 6b Bob Hickish & Dave Pickford Blackers Hole The awesome undercut pillar and roof left of Schwarzchild Radius provides one of the most outrageous trad routes at Swanage: a Polaris for the twenty-first century. The line cannot be realistically approached by abseil due to its extreme steepness (it overhangs around 18 metres) nor by traversing in - even at low tide the base of the pillar is cut off by a deep trench. The first ascensionists approached the pillar by inflatable boat at high tide, which means a hanging belay in the obvious deep chimney at its base is easily reached. A pre-placed rope at the second belay may be a preferable exit to the route rather than climbing pitch 3 (pitch 4 of Laughing Arthur). 1: 6b, 25 metres Contort up the chimney (Friend 4/5 useful at the top) and make wild moves out to good holds on the wall above. Move up and right across straightforward terrain (thread) to gain an overhung guano-coated ledge (peg). Make steep moves up on guano and slime-covered holds to gain a severely overhanging diagonal crack which leads directly to the roof (thread). Take a hanging belay here on the thread and a selection of cams in one of the wildest positions at Swanage. 2: 6b, 15 metres Hand traverse out left from the belay (good small and medium cams) until level with the in-situ thread hanging from the lip of the 2-metre ceiling. Make an ape-like span (crux) out to jugs on the lip, then cut loose and fly up the overhanging wall above (2 more threads) to gain a ledge. Belay here on a pre-placed rope and two threads, or traverse right to the third belay of Laughing Arthur. 3: 5b, 20 metres Climb Pitch 4 of Laughing Arthur, or jumar up the chossy slab on the pre-placed rope. September 2nd 2011 Add/View Comments
The gullible Armadillo's tail HVS 5a Tom Hill Winspit Sea cliff. About 40 meters from the stack is a diamond shaped boulder. Climb the slab to a ledge then ascend the gently overhanging, south-west facing crack to the top. July 25th 2011 Add/View Comments
Serendipity F4 Mick Ward Battleship Main Left of Flickhead Goes Boing Boing. The arête (care needed) with, hopefully, a serendipitous moment en route. In memory of Iain Edwards. July 10th 2011 Add/View Comments
Sealed With a Kiss F6a Mick Ward Battleship Main The rather chic groove between Setting the Date and Champagne Supernova. July 7th 2011 Add/View Comments
Cruel Mistress F6c+ Mick Ward Battleship Main Between Flickhead Goes Boing Boing and Hats off to the Insane. The hanging flake, rib and scoop. Don’t get spurned! July 7th 2011 Add/View Comments

Displaying routes 21 to 30 ( 390 routes in total )

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