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The Dorset New Routes Directory

Route Name Grade First Ascentionist Crag Description Date Climbed Comments
Lazy Robs and Frightful Lobs F5+ Sam Ferguson Battleship Back Cliff Left to right traverse of the veranda. Starting up Dr Sole and Mr Sole then hand traversing the obvious ledge at 2/3rds height and finishing up Cat Juggling. March 8th 2012 Add/View Comments
Man or Muppet E2 5c Ed Babington Boulder Ruckle Central Climb The Tool past the fault-line to its small overhang. Follow the overhang's flake line diagonally up and right above the curving overlap of Bert and Ernie. Step right when the flake line closes and climb the corner to finish as Bert and Ernie. March 1st 2012 Add/View Comments
La Fievre Spiteuse F5+ Sam Ferguson Cheyne Wears Area 8m. Difficult start leads to an easy middle section with an unusual mantle/rockover on the upper wall. Fun route. Belayed by Steph. January 10th 2012 Add/View Comments
Return of the rice bandit F6a Sam Ferguson Cheyne Wears Area 6m. Straight forward start with difficult moves up the aręte to gain the lower offs. Moving left into the groove at the top lowers the grade. Left of midday massacre. January 10th 2012 Add/View Comments
Midday Massacre F5 Sam Ferguson Cheyne Wears Area Route left of lucy's off the wall. Still a little bit dirty but once it has some traffic will be a good addition to the crag. Nice moves on big holds. October 9th 2011 Add/View Comments
Jug City F4 Mick Ward Lighthouse Area On the tidal wall right of the prow of “Private Dancer” are a pair of routes sharing a common start, the left-hand line. Climb direct to a juggy headwall. Top out to a belay staple on the block behind. October 1st 2011 Add/View Comments
Jugalicious F3 Mick Ward Lighthouse Area On the tidal wall right of the prow of “Private Dancer” are a pair of routes sharing a common start, the right-hand line, breaking right at the ledge to more jugs. Top out to a belay staple on the block behind. October 1st 2011 Add/View Comments
Stromboli F6a+ John Leonard Beeston Cliff Left of Krakatoa is a slightly impending groove starting form a small ledge (belay staple). Climb this on flowstone crimps and flakes to a ledge on the top of the left aręte. Belay staple on the block above as for Krakatoa. September 29th 2011 Add/View Comments
Northern Invasion F7a Sam Ferguson Cheyne Wears Area The line of bolts right of Julie Ocean. Starts easy and finishes with difficulty, the headwall is difficult to read. September 21st 2011 Add/View Comments
Endeavour F8c Bob Hickish Blackers Hole Start up Infinite Gravity to level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and underneath the big roof to deposit you at the bottom of the hanging 30 degree orange wall that makes the other side of the huge ships prow. Climb this with hard moves on pockets to join the Laughing Arthur roof crack half way along. Finish rightwards along this to the belay at the end of Laughing Arthur pitch 2. September 15th 2011 Add/View Comments

Displaying routes 11 to 20 ( 390 routes in total )

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