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The Dorset New Routes Directory

Route Name Grade First Ascentionist Crag Description Date Climbed Comments
A Ying and Yang and Yippiedeedoo. F5 Tom Beaumont Dungecroft Quarry The steep and juggy line left of 'The lesser of...' F5+ August 1st 2010 Add/View Comments
Men Behaving Badly F7a Rob Kennard The Cuttings An eliminate with good climbing on the wall left of Amen Corner. Boulder up to the pocket(or traverse in from the corner at 6c+), the make a hard move to gain the flowstone rib. July 21st 2010 Add/View Comments
Dirty Bertie F4 Andy Dunford Dungecroft Quarry 20m left of 'Hayabusa'. The lefthand line with a tough start with easier climbing above. July 13th 2010 Add/View Comments
Doris Does Dungecroft F3 Sarah Perrett Dungecroft Quarry To the right of 'Dirty Bertie'. BIG JUGS! July 13th 2010 Add/View Comments
FAGI code 65 E3 5c Marti Hallett & Sue Hazel Fishermans Ledge Start a couple of metres right of rough boys, climb straight up to the short corner of the ledge and roof. Hand traverse the horizontal crack right for 2m, climb straight up the flaked crack to small niche under roof. Follow ‘Bon fire’ up the aręte and right, then instead of traversing , forge straight up the wall on flatties and side pulls, to and small overlap, small shallow niche above. Finish past this to long ledge 2m below the top. Great rock though out. July 11th 2010 Add/View Comments
Fix It Duck F6b Andy Dunford Dungecroft Quarry Left of 'We Apologise for the Inconvenience'. Climb the technical grove below the ominous hanging block and the left side of the arete above. July 10th 2010 Add/View Comments
Wall Lizard F6c+ John Leonard Dungecroft Quarry The hanging slab at the left of the pit. Climb the hanging slab direct. No crafty feet on the ledges at either side at the grade. Just like being on the Gritstone. July 1st 2010 Add/View Comments
Double Ard Bastard E4 6b Marti Hallett & Mick Ward Fishermans Ledge New sector where ruffty tuffy used to be. Start about 8m right of ‘When land becomes sea’ A hard boulder problem start past a small tread, gains the stuck-on incrusted slab on the right. Climb up on these to the twin vertical slots under the slopping roof. Move out right under roof till a good flaked formed by a block let easy access to the top. June 28th 2010 Add/View Comments
Gecko Wall F6a John Leonard Dungecroft Quarry At the lefthand side of the pit is a hanging slab. Climb up under the slab and pass it on its left by an awkward mantle. Move back right on to the slab to finish. Shares the same staples as Wall Lizard. June 26th 2010 Add/View Comments
The Cookie Monster F3 Madi Leonard Dungecroft Quarry In the pit left of Rai. The left hand of two easier lines. Climbs the corner right of the hanging slab. June 23rd 2010 Add/View Comments

Displaying routes 11 to 20 ( 237 routes in total )

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