| Chestnut Mare |
F7b+ |
Rob Kennard |
Start on the left edge of the cave,right of Post Coital Snooze, swing rightwards, then thug up to a rail below the 'tombstone'. Hard moves around this gain the top. |
October 2nd 2005 |
| Souls of Mischief |
F7c+ |
Dan Kennard |
The old open-project left of Lunacy Booth. Starting from the left-hand cairn, boulder up to the roof. Hard moves up and left lead to easier ground in the groove.(8BR) |
January 28th 2006 |
| Disbelief Direct |
F7c+ |
Jimbo Kimber |
Climb the boulder problem start of Souls of Mischief, then move left into Disbelief Suspended, finishing up the right hand variant. |
December 20th 2005 |
| Bread Knife |
F3+ |
Scott Titt |
Climbs the big corner right of 'Any Old Time'.
Start just to the right of the corner, below a flake in the white wall. Climb to the top of the flake, then move left into the corner. |
January 1st 2006 |
| Iron Bar |
F5 |
Scott Titt |
Start between of Post-Coital Snooze and Chestnut Mare. Initial steep moves gain a crack, then move left onto the face.( now easier after a jug has appeared at the bulge.) (Previously climbed, solo, by Nathan Jones in 1994 and known as 'Jim's Teaser: Ed.) |
January 1st 2006 |
| Anne- Marie paid my fee |
F4+ |
Scott Titt |
Climb the corner left of Nine Years Absence. |
January 1st 2006 |
| Stargazy |
F6a+ |
Scott Titt |
Three bolts allow the thin crack between Mackerel and Knickerless Crutches to be climbed to a 'Monster Hook' lower-off. |
April 28th 2006 |
| Solstice |
F7a+ |
Rich White and Rob Kennard |
Climbs the groove left of Avenging the Halswell. Start immidiately left of AtH, and make difficult moves up to an obvious undercut. A big move up and right gains the horizontal break. Traverse leftwards to the groove, which is climbed with difficulty until a final hard move gains another good horizontal break. Easier moves lead around the roof to the finish of AtH.(The initial moves still have some loose holds that are yet to be prised off!) |
June 21st 2006 |
| Fishy Business |
F5+ |
Scott Titt |
30m L of Gorilla Tactics is a ridge with 2 corners above it. The RH corner gives super climbing to a "Monster hook" belay. |
June 27th 2006 |
| Plaice a bolt |
F5 (low) |
Scott Titt |
The corner L of Fishy Business, sharing the start. Balancey, not strenuous. Double maillon lower-off. |
July 6th 2006 |
| Autumn Leaves |
F5+ |
Scott Titt |
To the R of (and around the corner from) Idiot Village is a steep, loose groove. Be careful, and tell me the grade |
August 10th 2006 |
| Silver Bream Machine |
F6c |
Scott Titt |
The line of bolts 4m R of Fishy Business, hard at the top. |
July 20th 2006 |
| Premenstrual princess |
F6b+ |
Marti Hallet, Rob Kennard |
Takes the short open corner left of Damnation Game. Step in from left, gain small holds in the corner, and a difficult move to stand in the groove. For the true line, fire up the thin wall to the right of the bolts to gain a glued flake.( do not use large Staple-not clued in fully!).
|
December 2nd 2006 |
| Flux Capacitor |
F5+ |
Tom Beaumont |
Around the corner from 'Idiot Village' about 10m past 'Autumn Leaves' just left of a small cave half way up the cliff. Follow the crackline and groove, good rock. Left of the route is a large loose looking block, there are plans to remove this! |
March 13th 2007 |
| Free Entre-prise |
F5 |
Marti Hallett |
The most left hand route on quarrymans wall. The short flake/crack and corner left of 'The Genius of SK' |
January 27th 2008 |
| I thought you had it! |
F6c+ |
Rob Kennard and Matt Ridgway |
The crack and grooved arete right of 'Unseen Ripple'. Good independent climbing except at the very top where it is possible(but unnecessary!)to move left. |
February 16th 2008 |
| Warm Love |
F6a |
Scott Titt |
The line of bolts right of The Skin Room. A bit butch at the top. |
February 23rd 2008 |
| Birthday Treat |
HVS 5b |
Steve Newman and Scott Titt |
The left facing corner right of Flash Heart Direct, moving left on the upper wall. Climbed onsight as a trad route on 17.9.06, but subsequently bolted in error by Rob Kennard. The first ascentionist has graciously allowed the bolts to remain to give a F5+. |
July 22nd 2008 |
| Chick Power |
F7b |
Rob Kennard |
The grey wall right of Chrissy. One for the boulderers, with only one hard (V7) section! Climb to the first bolt on Revhead, step left and tackle the bulging grey wall. A short arete and crack leads to the belay on Revhead. |
September 15th 2008 |
| First Dazes of Summer |
F6c |
Marti Hallett |
steep groove between Revhead... and Mackerel. start below Petzl bolt climb past and over roof to gain the groove, hands free rest (not that you need it yet) A hard exit over the bulge brings you to the last blank wall with belay, can be taken either L or R |
September 18th 2008 |
| The Pizza Express |
F7c+ |
Bob Hickish |
A link up of "Souls of Mischief" (the old project) into "Lunacy Booth". Climb "Souls..." to its 4th bolt, making the initial moves of the crux sequence for that route, then traverse hard right with your hands over the lip, into the kneebar rest of "Lunacy Booth". Finish as for this route. Overall slightly harder than "Souls" and providing some powerful new moves, though maybe only for locals! |
January 20th 2009 |
| On the List |
E2 5c |
Marti Hallett |
the arete right off flashheart.... A little bit of an eliminate but with good independent moves if climbed true to the arete. Start below fossil inprint hold. climb arete direct keep on it until above 3rd bolt stretch left for good hold in crack and gear, finish direct as for rubic's hex. There is a good nut belay on ledge or go to fence. |
May 20th 2009 |
| Hot Beef Injection |
F6b |
Theo Elmer |
Line to the left of Birthday Treat, start on the boulder climbing direct up the face to join its belay.
Long and hard, culminating in a climax at the top. |
August 27th 2009 |
| The gullible Armadillo's tail |
HVS 5a |
Tom Hill |
Sea cliff. About 40 meters from the stack is a diamond shaped boulder. Climb the slab to a ledge then ascend the gently overhanging, south-west facing crack to the top. |
July 25th 2011 |