Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Promenade
| Route Name | Grade | First Ascentionist | Description | Date Climbed |
| Clamp Down | F6c | Pete Oxley & Andy Bell | An acrobatic introduction to the steeper routes at the Promenade, recommended. | November 19th 2005 |
| Down in the Sewer | F7b | Pete Oxley | Reclimbed after rockfall removed finishing jug rail. Now more sustained with tricky moves leftward to jugs over the lip past the belay. No hanging slings allowed off belay! Actually improves the quality. | December 10th 2005 |
| Elements of Abstraction | F7c | Pete Oxley | An inspiring study in inventive roof work, providing a long sustained extension to Down in the sewer following the obvious arcing line. ( One Rock 6 needed ) | November 19th 2005 |
| Crystal Voyager 2 | E4 6a | Re- ascent -Pete Oxley | Reclimbed after old crux roof collapsed it is still brilliant but with a completely different character. It is generally harder and more sustained but essentially well protected. Start as for original via the awkward lower crack to jugs then using huge undercuts initiate hard moves rightward up a blank wall (stainless PR ) to hit the roof above. Further difficult undercut moves lead rightward past the final two roofs. Finish as before up a pleasant groove. Two stake belays. | December 28th 2005 |
| Seratonin | F7a+ | Pete Oxley | Destined to extract a smile for any roof fanatic. Hard and reachy. Start just right of Genetix. 4brs. Climb the easy slab to beneath the obvious 3m roof overlap. Undercut out and heel hook swiftly over, crux, to better holds. Finish direct up the short prow on good holds to a 2BB. Lower off. | December 18th 2005 |
| To Fever Pitch Direct | F7a+ | Pete Oxley | Exquisite, the best on these shorter black walls, now very sustained. 5brs. Start 2m left of the old corner start. Overcome the very difficult first roof on poor holds to join the original at a good break. Step right and ascend direct over the ensuing multiple rooflets past a superb mid-air jug rest to a tricky rock over on to the final slab. Pad easily to a 2BB shared with Boiling point, Lower off. | December 18th 2005 |
| Star of Africa | F7b+ | re-ascent - Pete Oxley | Re-ascended after the demise of the block, with an increase in the grade to 7b+. The change of line of Crystal Voyager now means that this route has an independant lower- off. | April 22nd 2006 |
| Air of Detachment | F7b | Rob Kennard, Bernard Exley and Rich White | A direct version of 'Crimes Against the Soul', tackling the roof via some wild moves. | May 31st 2008 |
| Fuel My Fire | F8a+ | Bob Hickish | This is an old project about 60m to the right of "The Incredible Hulk", on the other side of the pinnacle. It’s the expansion bolts that follow an “S” shape line climbing above the hanging aręte. Start on the left and traverse upward and rightwards to the aręte, from here move leftwards then upwards to the other aręte to find the first staple bolt and easy ground. It is possible to escape at the end of the rightwards traverse into the big flake/roof crack line (7c+) but this is awkward, scary and not nearly as good. The actual line is an incredibly good power endurance route with great moves and rock; 3 stars. A little unsure of the grade. Would be repeaters should note that as someone has chopped the first couple of bolts, it may provide peace of mind to bring a clipstick for your first go, the first bolt is now 3.5m up with slightly tricky climbing to get there. | June 3rd 2009 |
| Dafinko | F7c | Martin Krasnansky | It used to be old project between Becalmed and Futurist Area. Powerful moves in roof involving " funny positions of the body" .Good flexibility of the body makes the climbing easier.Named after my dog who survived a long fall on Portland.He deserves it!:) Thanks Oxley for bolting the line! | August 19th 2009 |
| Edwards Effort | E1 5b | re-ascent following rockfall | I think a section of rock has come off this route since the 2005 Rockfax guide and it's now harder. New description is something like: Climb the slabby ramp past a mini roof to a small sentry box under a second roof. Make some fingery moves across the white wall on the right to a foot ledge. Balance up to bomber jugs over a flake and then romp to the top, passing three roofs. Either top out or use the lower-off on a slab to the right just below the top (on All Apologies?). We pulled off one hold but I wouldn't describe the route as loose - just infrequently climbed. Of course I may just be a complete pussy and have had a hard time on a VS. | April 17th 2010 |
