| Milly's Route |
VS 4a |
Alex More |
A solo up the middle of the mini-slab facing out to sea. Climb up and out on positive mini-crystal type holds to an easy top out (S1) |
July 2nd 2006 |
| Open Sunday, No Monday |
VS 4c |
Alex More |
Another Solo above good water. Start as for Milly's route at the bottom of the slab, bridge out left through the grove and pull up over the slight overhang on great big round pockets, easy top out (S0) |
July 2nd 2006 |
| SingleFin Yellow |
E1 5a |
Alex More |
A great little solo up and over the bulge on the back of the boulder. Pull up on vein like holds and reach over the bulge to a single-fin. Cut feet loose and mantel up to a steady finish (S0) High Tide only |
July 2nd 2006 |
| Oh Blow You! |
F7a |
Marti Hallet |
Climb the wall left of Blow Daddy-O. A good fingery addition to the Church Rock boulder. |
September 5th 2007 |
| B-Boys Rock |
F6b+ |
Marti Hallet |
The obvious link up from the start of Jugmaster Funk into House Nation via a tricky undercut section. |
September 5th 2007 |
| Windowchrome |
F8a+ |
gavin Symonds |
Starting up Windows, into Horny then freeing up Adrenochrome |
September 5th 2007 |
| Skillfish |
E2 5b |
Jon Biddle |
The higher diagonal above The Walkin' Dude |
September 1st 2007 |
| Cat Power |
V6 |
Marcus Dymond |
A mid-height left to right traverse of the Cheese Boulder. From a sit-starting on the aręte left of Jurassica make moves up the aręte and break right across the lip of the overhang, continue slightly upwards and rightwards (keeping below the obvious shield between Peter Crouch and Stick Stealer) to the starting jugs (standing start) of Cheese Arete. Finish as for Cheese aręte. |
October 21st 2007 |
| Doing Time |
V6 |
Marcus Dymond |
A link-up traversing right to left on the Cheese Boulder. Sit- start up Cheese Arete, join Cat Power, traverse leftwards, and exit up Jurassica. (Something to do, if the Dragon area is stll wet on arrival) |
October 27th 2007 |
| Jade River |
V6 |
Marcus Dymond |
Climb the blank wall right of Dungy Aręte prob 28 DCWEB topo (aręte out of bounds) start from standing using one bad crimp (left hand) and even worse crimp (right hand), gain a small side pull and top out. |
February 17th 2008 |
| Black Mass |
V4 |
Marcus Dymond |
On the opposite side of the wow prow boulder, climb the overhanging face, starting from sitting in front of an area of black chert. Move up to an obvious pocket and use holds up and left to gain a long side pull then the rounded top. Exit using jugs out left to avoid the rib of suspect rock above. |
February 9th 2008 |
| Crown of Thorns |
V3 |
Marcus Dymond |
On the opposite side of the wow prow boulder, start on the right hand side of the overhanging face with the aręte and a good hold for the left hand, climb the aręte and rock over on good holds to climb the right hand side of the rib of suspect rock. |
February 17th 2008 |
| Serpent |
V5 |
Marcus Dymond |
A longish rising traverse on the Dragon boulder that lacks the quality of the Eden Project or the Dragon but is still worthwhile – start from a jug, whilst sat on a rounded stone 2/3 meters right of the start of the Dragon, follow a line of spaced jugs left. Make a couple of harder moves on smaller holds to top out on jugs.
Starting up The Dragon and moving into the Serpent makes a good V6. (Left Hand Man) |
February 17th 2008 |
| Freudian Tendencies |
V6 |
Marcus Dymond |
Along the beach in the direction of Dungy head (coming from Church Rock) about 100 meters further on from Mongoose Grove – prob 17 DCWEB Lulworth bouldering topo, is a set of scrappy boulders protruding from the muddy cliff. A short narrow cave, formed by two leaning boulders, is visible. The problem traverses the east wall of the cave starting (standing) from the seaward aręte, and enters the ‘cave’ tricky moves around a bulge in the back gain a slab which is climbed more easily to exit up on top of the boulders - no bridging, beware the jammed stones above you. |
February 17th 2008 |
| Front Bottom |
V5 |
Marcus Dymond |
A diminutive boulder (located in front of problem 25 on the DCWEB Lulworth Bouldering topo) with a technical sequence required for success - start from sitting under the front bottom overhanging face with left hand on the aręte and right hand on a slopey pinch. Make a tricky move to get on the problem; climb awkwardly up and round the aręte and mantle to reach a jug. |
February 9th 2008 |
| Skullthugery |
F7c |
Bob Hickish |
A great trip. Reverse "Hurbot the Turbot" untill your on the hanging slab in the middle of the arch. Then make wild horizontal moves outwards towards daylight and the diagonal at bottom of the "Gates of Greyskull" face. Make a couple of moves up this crack to join "Gates of Greyskull", 7c to finish up this. S1/2 |
June 28th 2009 |
| Magnetic Skulls |
F7c |
Bob Hickish |
Does Skullthugery into Magnetic Gates, taking in the crux of each. Hard 7c. |
June 19th 2010 |
| Never kneel to an eternity of mediocracy |
F8a |
Bob Hickish |
The obvious link up of "Never Kneel to Skeletor" into "Journey to Eternia". A Deep water solo |
September 4th 2010 |
| The Beast Goes East |
F7c |
Bob Hickish |
Climb "Mark of the beast" to where it moves slightly right to rest on a flake/thread jug at half height. From here make a powerfull undercut move up and right to the big slopey ramp, move right again and finish up "Burn Hollywood Burn". A DWS, above water all the way, but possible to be roped if your a wuss. |
September 4th 2010 |
| Taming the Beast |
F7b+ |
Bob Hickish |
The easiest bottom to top route in the east cave; bound to be popular! Start up "Mark of the Beast" to the heel-hook rockover off a pocket at 3/4 height. Here the original swings leftwards, but you go straight up on edges then with a move rightwards to a large porthole before slapping for the top. A Deep Water Solo |
September 4th 2010 |