Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Fishermans Ledge
||The ultimate route at Swanage and one of the biggest free overhangs in the UK. The quality of the rock and creative movement is unsurpassed ? four stars! The lineage takes the arcing central line across the great cave starting from a high non-tidal ledge on the East side 1BB. Good fresh conditions essential, very little seepage.
||October 2nd 2005
||Matt Perks / Andy Lamont
||This is an eliminate up the wall to the right of Calcitron, between that route and Rock Widow. It is pretty much the line of the abseil into this area. Start a few metres right of Calcitron by a funky thread and some slots in the base of the wall, and immediately above some juggy holds that replace the belay ledge at this point. Make a couple of moves straight up to a finger jug in a shallow letter-box, then up and slightly right to a juggy protrusion; trend up and slightly left to take a shallow groove into the bulge above and pass this to reach easier ground. Now the best option is to trend left to some deep pockets on Calcitron and then back right to finish. There is a selection of small wires at first, then it's a bit runout, there's a good medium cam in a pocket on the left at the slight bulge, and then plenty of good gear on the easier ground. The first attempt ended at a rest on a dubious thread below the bulge, which broke, depositing me suddenly back on the starting ledge - inspiring the name. Climbed after plenty of abseil inspection and cleaning. It's quite sustained, no particularly hard moves, maybe only 5b. And of course may have been done years ago.
||April 24th 2010
|Double Ard Bastard
||Marti Hallett & Mick Ward
||New sector where ruffty tuffy used to be.
Start about 8m right of ‘When land becomes sea’ A hard boulder problem start past a small tread, gains the stuck-on incrusted slab on the right. Climb up on these to the twin vertical slots under the slopping roof. Move out right under roof till a good flaked formed by a block let easy access to the top.
||June 28th 2010
|FAGI code 65
||Marti Hallett & Sue Hazel
||Start a couple of metres right of rough boys, climb straight up to the short corner of the ledge and roof. Hand traverse the horizontal crack right for 2m, climb straight up the flaked crack to small niche under roof. Follow ‘Bon fire’ up the aręte and right, then instead of traversing , forge straight up the wall on flatties and side pulls, to and small overlap, small shallow niche above. Finish past this to long ledge 2m below the top. Great rock though out.
||July 11th 2010
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