Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Dungecroft Quarry
| Route Name | Grade | First Ascentionist | Description | Date Climbed |
| Crazy Old Hippies | F4+ | Tom Beaumont | The second of two flowstone areas about 50m past the 'Truly, Madly, Steeply' wall. The right hand line is a short route on dramatic flowstone with some bizarre holds.Start in the trench for the full tick! | April 8th 2007 |
| Ultrasonic Shoulder | F6a+ | Tom Beaumont | Start about 5m left of 'Crazy Old Hippies' follow the obvious tufa. Crux finish to a good hold immediately above LOs. | April 10th 2007 |
| Crowbar Assassin | F6a+ | Tom Beaumont | Technical flowstone climbing starting right of 'Crazy Old Hippies' and sharing its LO. Keep off the jugs to the left for this grade. Be careful of the boulder to the right if you fall!! | April 29th 2007 |
| Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head | F5 | Jeremy Whittles | Climb the flowstone and conglomerate left 'Ultrasonic Shoulder'. | April 29th 2007 |
| Dungecroft Delight | F5 | Tom Beaumont | The first flowstone wall about 30m past the 'Sex, Lies and Videotape wall'. This route takes the obvious central line starting steeply up the left side of the conglomerate. | May 26th 2007 |
| The Alpha and The Omega | F3+ | Jeremy Whittles | Climb onto the flowstone ledge then follow the flowstone flake crack, friendly positive climbing. | May 26th 2007 |
| The Epicurean Paradox | F6b+ | Tom Beaumont | Start up 'Dungecroft Delight' at the first bolt of DD move left to good holds in the faultline. A big reach or a small crimp leads you steeply up and leftwards to finish on easy flowstone, cruxy. | May 29th 2007 |
| Covert Strike | F6b | Tom Beaumont | The left hand route, technical flowstone moves on the upper section. For topos of all the new Dungecroft routes see: www.forestpath.net/dungecroft/ | May 29th 2007 |
| Sping Nol | F4 | Julia Beaumont | F4+ The flowstone slab 10m left of 'Die Screaming...' | April 17th 2010 |
| T-Muffhundred | F5 | Tom Beaumont | 5m left of 'Sping Nol' climb the corner/offwidth to ledges then step round the overhang onto the flowstone headwall. | April 17th 2010 |
| Julios Ropeladder | F6a+ | Tom Beaumont | The technical flowstone slab just right of 'Sping Nol', fingery and balancy climbing. | June 17th 2010 |
| Death Star Canteen | F5 | Tom Beaumont | F5+. The steep flowstone groove between 'Ultrasonic Shoulder' and 'Crazy Old Hippies' with a tricky start. As with other routes on this wall this is best started from the ditch at the foot of the wall. | June 17th 2010 |
| Heroes of Swanage | F5 | Mick Ward | The flake crack right of Truly, Madly, Steeply. Layback the flake with gusto; you’ll feel like a rock star!F5+. | May 19th 2010 |
| Heroes of Portland | F6b | Mick Ward | Start up Heroes of Swanage but step rightwards for more technical fare. | May 19th 2010 |
| Blood on the Rocks | F6a | John Leonard | Left of Truly, Madly, Steeply is a deep rift, the route starts near the left side of this. Step across the rift to a faint groove, climb this and move right to cross the overhang. A bloody repeat ascent resulting from a snapped crimp, it should be solid now but take care with the conglomerate on the upper wall. | May 24th 2010 |
| Little Terror | F5 | John Leonard | Left of the rift of Blood on the Rocks the ground drops to reveal a wall of excellent quality rock. A sporting mantle into the corner groove leads to powerful moves on big holds to gain the ledge above. Great fun. (the route to its left is a project, please respect) | May 24th 2010 |
| Can You See Scratchy Bottom? | F6a+ | Mick Ward | Left of Truly, Madly, Steeply at the start of the rift. Climb the crack and wall above. Well, can you see it? | May 30th 2010 |
| The Clicking of Her Needles Spelled Doom | F6b+ | Mick Ward | Left of Can You See Scratchy Bottom. Step across the rift, crimp to the break and flowstone to the top. Commemorates a meeting between two hapless locals and a well-known climber. Before they knew it, they’d been transformed into bunnies – belay bunnies! | May 30th 2010 |
| Love | F6c | Mick Ward | Left of the rift area past a leaning block against the wall. Climb the middle of the white wall. A few technical moves based on the obvious shot hole. | June 4th 2010 |
| Peace | F6a+ | Mick Ward | Climb the slightly blind faint groove left of Love. | June 4th 2010 |
| Julia | F6a | Mick Ward | Left of Peace is a large open pit with a grey pillar on its right.The right hand route. Delicate moves up the gritstonesque slab. More elegant than Rai. | June 3rd 2010 |
| Rai | F6a | Mick Ward | Crimpy moves up the wall to the left. More physical than Julia. | June 3rd 2010 |
| We Apologise for the Inconvenience | F5 | Adam Perrett | South of the pit is a large undercut bivvy boulder (V10 anyone?) with a good wall to its right. Climb the slab on its right to the ledge and the left side of the corner above. | June 19th 2010 |
| Hayabusa | F6a | Adam Perrett | The left side of the wall. A technical lower wall to the ledge leads to a good flake above. | June 19th 2010 |
| The Cookie Monster | F3 | Madi Leonard | In the pit left of Rai. The left hand of two easier lines. Climbs the corner right of the hanging slab. | June 23rd 2010 |
| Make Cookies Not War | F4 | Madi Leonard | In the pit left of Rai, the right hand of two easier lines. Climb the wall via ledges and flakes to a lower off on the top wall. Really good. | June 23rd 2010 |
| Gecko Wall | F6a | John Leonard | At the lefthand side of the pit is a hanging slab. Climb up under the slab and pass it on its left by an awkward mantle. Move back right on to the slab to finish. Shares the same staples as Wall Lizard. | June 26th 2010 |
| Wall Lizard | F6c+ | John Leonard | The hanging slab at the left of the pit. Climb the hanging slab direct. No crafty feet on the ledges at either side at the grade. Just like being on the Gritstone. | July 1st 2010 |
| Fix It Duck | F6b | Andy Dunford | Left of 'We Apologise for the Inconvenience'. Climb the technical grove below the ominous hanging block and the left side of the arete above. | July 10th 2010 |
| Dirty Bertie | F4 | Andy Dunford | 20m left of 'Hayabusa'. The lefthand line with a tough start with easier climbing above. | July 13th 2010 |
| Doris Does Dungecroft | F3 | Sarah Perrett | To the right of 'Dirty Bertie'. BIG JUGS! | July 13th 2010 |
| Trust Me I'm a Doctor | F3 | Jeremy Whittles | 10m left of 'T-Muffhundred' the short corner, ledges and juggy headwall | August 1st 2010 |
| Never Ignore a Pooh-Pooh | F2 | Jeremy Whittles | 5m left of 'Trust Me...' the ledges and brown flowstone. F2+ | August 1st 2010 |
| Wind Dog | F6b | Tom Beaumont | Left of 'Never Ignore..' A boulder problem headwall involving an undercut mono pocket. | August 1st 2010 |
| The Lesser of two Weevils | F6b+ | Tom Beaumont | Left of 'Wind Dog'. The overhang followed by the crimpy and reachy headwall. | August 1st 2010 |
| A Ying and Yang and Yippiedeedoo. | F5 | Tom Beaumont | The steep and juggy line left of 'The lesser of...' F5+ | August 1st 2010 |
| Return of the Gecko | F6c | Mick Ward | Climbs the wall right of 'Love'. Essentially a direct finish to the next route. | August 18th 2010 |
| I Learned to Swim at Dunkirk | F4 | Mick Ward | The obvious 'shothole' line at the right-hand side of the Love and Peace wall. Climb to the break and sidestep the bulge by stepping onto the huge, seemingly detached flake. The name commemorates a great line from one of the old Portland quarrymen. Probably F4+. | August 18th 2010 |
