Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Cheyne Wears Area
| Route Name | Grade | First Ascentionist | Description | Date Climbed |
| Mr Fudge | V2 | Tom Beaumont | Dungecroft Quarry. The short arête 10m right of ‘Sex, Lies and Videotape’. Sit start under the low overhang and start using the flowstone finger ledge. Continue up the arête via side pulls to a flowstone bobble up and slightly left. Top out past cleaned ledges, the way down is to the right. | December 30th 2007 |
| Heviz | V2 | Tom Beaumont | The wall just left of ‘Mr Fudge’. Sit start under the farthest right of the rectangular quarry marks. Continue straight up the wall via a big flowstone sloper. Top out. | December 30th 2007 |
| Why Not | V0 | Tom Beaumont | The easy slab just right of ‘Mr Fudge’. Top out. | December 30th 2007 |
| Nice Groove | V0 | John Leonard | Straight up through the groove in the upper part of the wall between Stopcock and Amoeba State. Delightful delicate climbing. | April 22nd 2006 |
| Threatening Speedos | F6c+ | Tom Beaumont | Start at the thin crack 3m left of ‘Pouch of Douglas’ cross a small overhang to the fairly blank looking headwall. Quite fingery and technical. | October 17th 2008 |
| Back Stairs | V4 | Ben Tyrrell | It's probably been done before but hasn't been individually recorded. SS directly under Pete's Rib , throw a powerful slap to the break and do the pumpy traverse to the start of what was stairway direct and finish up this problem. | March 24th 2007 |
| Pete's Rib - Ben's Sitter | V7 | Ben Tyrrell | So obvious and so good I will be very surprised if I'm really the first to have done it... Sit start with low side pull (RH) and high crimp below the break (LH), slap up to the start holds of Pete's Rib and finish up this excellent problem. Doesn't warrant a full increase in grade but does add a little to the difficulty. | September 29th 2007 |
| Lucky Pants | V0 | Tom Beaumont | Dungecroft Bouldering. The wall right of Mr Fudge, the slab about 4m right of the corner with conglomerate jugs. VB | February 4th 2008 |
| Ginger Jihad | V0 | Jeremy Whittles | Dungecroft Quarry. The vague groove/crack line about 2m left of ‘Lucky Pants’ via a conglomerate block. | April 16th 2008 |
| Cake or Death | V1 | Tom Beaumont | Dungecroft Quarry. Climb the wall above the narrow low ledge just right of ‘Lucky Pants’ keeping right of the slim groove. | April 16th 2008 |
| Bariatric | F4 | Tom Beaumont | The short buttress just north of the road rage wall. Climb the flowstone groove/crackline at the righthand end of the wall. | November 30th 1999 |
| Italian Eighth | F5 | Tom Beaumont | The flowstone cracked arete left of Bariatric. There are abseil bolts in the block wall at the back of the ledge above this area. | November 30th 1999 |
| Bariatric | F4 | Tom Beaumont | The short Buttress just north of the Road Rage wall. This is the flowstone groove/crackline at the right-hand end of the wall. | June 24th 2008 |
| Pouch of Douglas | F5 | Tom Beaumont | The cracked flowstone arête left of ‘Bariatric’ is high in the grade, pleasant juggy climbing with a little bit of exposure. There are ab bolts in the block wall at the back of the ledge above these routes + a knotted access rope from the boulder beach | September 17th 2008 |
| Italian Eighth | F6b+ | Tom Beaumont | Start just left of ‘Threatening Speedos’ climb up and slightly leftwards to big side pulls then continue up the vague arête to a tricky finish. | October 17th 2008 |
| The Lost Domain | F6a | Mick Ward | The Lost Valley. The striking rib at the entrance - a (very short-lived) gritstoner’s glory. | September 7th 2009 |
| Flake Away | F4 | Mick Ward | The Lost Valley - to the right of "The Beauty of Decay". Flake away up the left-hand side of the obvious pinnacle. | October 28th 2009 |
| Flaked Out | F4 | John Leonard | Right of Flake Away. A tricky crack leads to a pleasant romp up the right-hand side of the flake pinnacle. F4+. | November 2nd 2009 |
| Echoes Of Trad | F4 | Mick Ward | Right of Flaked Out. The offwidth crack yields to pleasant ledge shuffling. F4+. | November 2nd 2009 |
| Test Pilot | F6a | John Leonard | Right of Echos of Trad. A technical delight up the corner groove. | November 2nd 2009 |
| Touch The Earth | F7a+ | Mick Ward | Right of Test Pilot. The miniscule crack requires disproportionate effort. | November 2nd 2009 |
| Primordial | F6b | John Leonard | Interesting moves up the wall to the right of Test Pilot. | November 18th 2009 |
| Portrait of a Lady | F6c+ | Mick Ward | Climb the centre of the pillar between Flake Away and Flaked Out. | November 18th 2009 |
| Tug on This Jody | F7a | Marti Hallett | Lost Valley. The right hand line on the tower at the extrem left of the crag. Boulder the start to jug some thin moves to finish. | December 10th 2009 |
| Constant Companion | F5 | John Leonard | Climb the arete at the right-hand end of the crag. | December 12th 2009 |
| Robin Crack | F5 | Marti Hallett | Lost Valley Left hand section. Climbs the Crack line left of Clamped Aggression. enjoy pulling on the keyed in lose hold in the centre. | December 22nd 2009 |
| Drilling in the name | F6b+ | Marti Hallett | Lost Valley left hand section. Climb the blunt buttress direct, left of Robin Crack. lower off on little pinky. 2 star route. | December 22nd 2009 |
| Look West & find Salvation | F7a+ | Marti Hallett | Lost Valley lefthand section. Line right of Tug on this Judy. Another bouldery start, easyer if your tall. relax in the center for the reachy finishing move, easyer for the short! | December 22nd 2009 |
| Air Kisses | F6c | Mick Ward | The left hand route on a new crag called The Nook, accessed from the Neddyfields car park. Walk 25 metres down the track and turn left onto the middle ledge of a small quarry. Follow this leftwards, the crag is just around the headland - 1 minute. Start below the widest overhang of the headwall - packs in a lot of tricky moves. | December 12th 2009 |
| Jugs of Joy | V Diff | Mick Ward | In The Nook. Solo traverse the breaks right to left and back again. Great for warm ups. | December 12th 2009 |
| My Pashminas Got Caught in the Gri Gri | F5 | Mick Ward | In The Nook - the second route from the left. From the corner created by a pedestal climb up to the V notch in the headwall. Probably top end 5+. | December 14th 2009 |
| Chill Dementia | F5 | Adam Perrett | In The Nook - right of the pedestal. A tricky start on the lower wall and then climb the blocky corner in the headwall on good holds. | December 20th 2009 |
| Sinister Dexter | F6b | Adam Perrett | In The Nook - the left hand of three routes that climb the flowstone headwall at the right end of the crag. Good moves on the lower wall lead to a tricky sequence above. | January 10th 2010 |
| Bring Me Sunshine | F6a | John Leonard | In The Nook - climbs the middle of the flowstone headwall. Start from the base of a rightward sloping ramp and climb straight up to a suprisingly pumpy sequence on the wall above. | January 23rd 2010 |
| It's a God Awful Small Affair | F2 | Sarah Perrett | In The Nook - the right hand end of the crag. Climb the sloping ramp or the wall to its right to gain the conglomerate groove above. Some amazing holds. | January 10th 2010 |
| Leering Crack | F5 | Mick Ward | The headwall crack left of Air Kisses. Climb the lower wall and then move left to climb the crack on its right. | January 30th 2010 |
| Sweet Dreams Are Made of This | F3 | Sarah Perrett | Neapolitan Slab, the recently uncovered "triple layer" slab opposite The Stoning of St. Stephen wall. This is left hand route to the right of the ivy crack. Easy start with a blind reach to the finishing hold. | March 21st 2010 |
| 4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42 | F4 | Adam Perrett | Second route from the left on the Neapolitan Slab. A tricky start leads to good holds in the breaks. Can be a bit reachy. | March 21st 2010 |
| Plastic Tractor | F3 | Michele Ireland | The right hand route on the Neapolitan slab. Tricky moves on the lower wall are easier for the tall. Named after the sit-on plastic tractor found in the undergrowth below. | March 21st 2010 |
| Dude, Where’s My Car? | Severe | John Leonard | A pleasant solo traverse of the lower break from right to left (V.Diff.), followed by a return along the slightly more difficult upper break. | March 21st 2010 |
| Rhys Gets Another Monkey Bite | F5 | Andy Dunford | The central line on the Neapolitan slab with a tricky move to pass the upper break. | March 15th 2010 |
| Not the Same Mistake Again Kath | F5 | Andy Dunford | Second route from the right on the Neapolitan slab. A hard to read sequence to reach the lower off. | March 15th 2010 |
| Puppet Show of Memory | F6a | Mick Ward | On The Neddyfields cliff, the righthand end of the southern starting wall, left of the trad route Inertia. The crack, wall and rib at the right-hand end of the wall. | April 9th 2010 |
| Books Across the Sea | F6a | Mick Ward | On The Neddyfields cliff, the righthand end of the southern starting wall, left of the trad route Inertia.The wall and overlap left of Puppet Show of Memory. | April 9th 2010 |
| Conquistadors of the Useless | F6c | Mick Ward | The first route on the southern approach to the Neddyfields cliff. Ascend the not quite blank wall. | May 7th 2010 |
| Small Object of Desire | F6a | John Leonard | The second route from the southern approach to the Neddyfields cliff. Tricky moves to gain the sloping scoop. | May 8th 2010 |
| Annapurna, Mon Amour | F6a | Mick Ward | The third route from the southern approach to the Neddyfields cliff. The overlap right of Small Object of Desire. | May 9th 2010 |
| Bundle of Joy | F4 | John Leonard | On the Neddyfields cliff, the wall 8m right of Ocean Boulevard. Start at the right hand end of the wall from the trad route Crush with Eyeliner. Climb diagonally leftwards to good fingery moves through the knobbly band of rock. | May 11th 2010 |
| Well'Ard | F7a+ | John Leonard | Dungecroft Quarry, the project to the left of Little Terror. | August 16th 2010 |
