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Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Blacknor South

Route Name Grade First Ascentionist Description Date Climbed
Tom's Way 1 Tom Way (originally climbed by Steve Taylor in 2004- editor.) The slabby back face of the larger Diamond boulder. The easiest route on Portland! Done solo but will be stapled. Nice. May 14th 2006
A Nugget of Puerest Green F4 Tom Beaumont & Jeremy Whittles On the Seaward face, the line left of 'Vertical Thrill'. July 10th 2006
Surf, sun and just having fun F3 Josh Leonard In the blocky quarried area on top of Blacknor South (we now call this Sector Grapefruit), currently the second stapled route after going through the block doorway. Climbs the Flowstone groove and pillar. October 24th 2007
Sunset Sessions F7a+ Steve Muncaster and Mick Ward This is the first of three new routes found in the blocky area at the top of Blacknor South. Easy small roof followed by more technical climbing above. October 23rd 2007
Casting at the Sun F5 John Leonard Right of "Surf sun and just having fun". Climbs the large conglomerate crimps on the upper wall. Currently the 3rd route from the block doorway although others are likely to appear inbetween soon. October 26th 2007
Memories of Blue F5 Mick Ward Right of "Casting at the Sun". Climb the small overhang via a long reach to a flowstone finger ledge on the upper wall. October 26th 2007
Vertically Challenged F3 Tom Beaumont The groove just left of 'Sunny Delight' taking a direct line to the LOs of 'Sunny Delight'. Previously soloed nov 07. December 14th 2007
Sunny Delight F3 Steve Muncaster Just left of Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun. Climbs the flowstone to lower offs on the ledge on the left. October 23rd 2007
The Mighty Bush F4 Vic Middleton Sharbutt's quarry. The flowstone right of 'Surf, sun and just having fun' via a small overhang. F4+ January 23rd 2008
Don't Kill Me F4 Tom Beaumont Sharbutt's Quarry. Left of 'Vertically Challenged' now the first route as you go through the block doorway. Good flowstone to finish via cleaned ledges. February 4th 2008
Sunseeker F2 John Leonard In Sharbutts Quarry. Climbs the flowstone at the foot of the decent into the quarry. February 21st 2008
Sunny Side Up F5 Josh Leonard In Sharbutts Quarry, to the right of "Sunset Sessions", just before the block doorway. Climbs over the conglomerate rail to a lower off on the ledge above. February 21st 2008
Meatjam F6a Tom Beaumont Sharbutts Quarry. Left of Sunset Sessions, a small overhang and a couple of fingery moves. Finish via cleaned ledges to LOs by a good flake. March 5th 2008
Rough Diamond F4 John Leonard On the Diamond Boulder left of Diamond Geezer. Start at the large flake under the overhanging left edge of the slab. Use this to to gain the slab and climb direct to a lower off at the very top. September 18th 2008
The Hardye Girls F7a John Leonard On the overhanging south face of the larger Diamond Boulder. Make a hard move to gain the overhung groove( use a single screwgate in the first bolt and an alert belayer). Follow the rightward rising traverse to a tricky move to pull out onto the back of the slab. Definitely one for the boulderers. October 4th 2009
Love in the Mist F6a Mick Ward Right of ‘I Love The Smell of Resin in the Morning’. Pleasantly intricate climbing up the blunt rib. June 10th 2010

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