Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
Printer Friendly Version(Opens new window)
New Routes by Crag ~ Battleship Back Cliff
| Route Name | Grade | First Ascentionist | Description | Date Climbed |
| Shape Shifter | F7c | Bob Hickish | Start up "Jurassic Shift" to the mid height ledge. Then step left and climb direct to the shared belay of "Bouys Will Be Bouys" via 3 new bolts and a powerful crux sequence. | August 31st 2008 |
| She's Dancing Tonight | F5 | John Leonard | One of three stapled "boulder problems" on the high ledge at the back of the south tip of the Block Slab. Climb the exposed groove just right of the far arete of the ledge. There is a belay staple on the back wall. | April 15th 2009 |
| Small is Beautiful | F6b | Mick Ward | One of three stapled "boulder problems" on the high ledge at the back of the south tip of the Block Slab. Climbs the main corner of the ledge. There is a belay staple on the wall to the right. | April 15th 2009 |
| Tiny Goddess | F5 | Mick Ward | One of three stapled "boulder problems" on the high ledge at the back of the south tip of the Block Slab. Layback the back of the southern arete. Exposed, photogenic and high in its grade. | April 18th 2009 |
| Dr. Sole and Mr. Sole | F3 | Andy Dunford | A new crag called 'The Veranda', 200m south of the Battleship back cliff. Located below the path for the southern access route. The left-hand route of the crag, with a delicate lay away up the final groove. | September 25th 2010 |
| Never Lead a Numb Existence | F4 | Andy Dunford | Climb the wall and top flake of ‘Phil’s Route’. | September 25th 2010 |
| Phil’s Route | F4 | Phil Bache | Climb the crack, trending left and make big, bold moves up the flake above. Originally done as a trad route 28.04.1990. | October 2nd 2010 |
| Days of Heaven | F4 | Mick Ward | Pleasant climbing up the wall. Probably F4+. | October 12th 2010 |
| Love on the Rocks ;) | F5 | Adam Perrett | Straight up over the grey band to a scoop. | October 10th 2010 |
| Absent Friends, Here's to Them | F5 | Adam Perrett | Climb the wall trending right at the grey band of rock. A hidden pocket may help to access the ledge above. Probably F5+. | October 25th 2010 |
| Limestone Cowboy | F4 | John Leonard | Follows the crackline. Named after a ‘local entrepreneur’. Probably F4+. Originally climbed as a trad route 28.04.1990. | October 25th 2010 |
| One Flew Out of the Cuckoo’s Nest | F5 | Sarah Perrett | Technical moves up the slight groove. Probably F5+. | October 25th 2010 |
| Hanging Out with Halo Jones | F6a | Adam Perrett | Good moves on the lower wall lead to a surprisingly tricky groove. | November 20th 2010 |
| I Get High With A Little Help From My Friends | F5 | Sarah Perrett | Climb the wall from the ledge. The finish may be awkward for the short. | November 20th 2010 |
| Cat Juggling | F4 | Andy Dunford | Climb from the right hand side of the ledge. Probably F4+ but the finish is height dependant and maybe F6a for the short. | November 19th 2010 |
| When You Were Little You Dreamed You Were Big | F6b+ | Adam Perrett | Between 'one flew out of the cuckoo's nest' and 'hanging out with halo jones' at the Veranda crag. The finishing hold is at the very top of the hanging groove. | December 27th 2010 |
| Pretty Flamingo | F6a+ | Mick Ward | Right of Lola. A tricky start to gain a good crimp. Nice moves lead to a square cut top to finish. | May 31st 2011 |
| A Groovy Kind of Love | F6c | Mick Ward | Right of Pretty Flamingo. The appealing groove is hard to start. | May 31st 2011 |
| Itchycoo Park | F6c+ | Mick Ward | Right of A Groovy Kind of Love. Another desperate hard start gives pleasant climbing above. | May 31st 2011 |
| Spear of Destiny | F5+ | Adam Perrett | Right of Itchycoo Park. The left side of the aręte provides some reachy moves. | May 31st 2011 |
| Spear of Broccoli | F5+ | Sarah Perrett | Right of Spear of Destiny. The right side of the aręte starting from the flakes. Delicate, balancy climbing. | May 31st 2011 |
| Heart of the Sun | F6a | John Leonard | Right of Spear of Broccoli. Fingery climbing on the right side of the wall, with a move left to a chert lump and then back right to the lower off. | May 31st 2011 |
| Lola | F5 | Andy Dunford | The left-hand route on The Balcony starting on knobbly footholds at the base of a scoop, moving in from the left lowers the grade. | June 2nd 2011 |
| Unload the Funbags | F6b+ | Andy Dunford | Climbs the wall at the left-hand side of the bay, with a hard start. Stepping in from the block on the left significantly lowers the grade. | June 3rd 2011 |
| High-Flyer | F6b | John Leonard | The right-hand route of The Attic. A very satisfying dyno from the lip of the overhang to the break above. | June 3rd 2011 |
| Jurassic Bark | F7a | Adam Perrett | Right of It's all a Bunch of Tree Hugging Hippie Crap. Start as the previous route and tackle the overhang direct. Graded for an average person, the grade being very height dependant. Both these routes feature some magnificent tree fossils, which provide solid holds and should be left in place. | June 22nd 2011 |
| It's all a Bunch of Tree Hugging Hippie Crap | F5+ | Sarah Perrett | Right of Unload the Funbags, Climbs the faint crack to beneath the overhang, which is passed by a traverse to the left. | July 2nd 2011 |
| Lazy Robs and Frightful Lobs | F5+ | Sam Ferguson | Left to right traverse of the veranda. Starting up Dr Sole and Mr Sole then hand traversing the obvious ledge at 2/3rds height and finishing up Cat Juggling. | March 8th 2012 |
| Thin on Top | F6a+ | Adam Perrett | The lefthand route of two new routes right of 'Cat Juggling' at the Veranda. Easy climbing then a very height dependant finish. | September 1st 2012 |
| Samphire and Steel | F5 | Sarah perrett | Right of 'Thin on Top' Climb the flowstone stain to the ledge, then up over the top flake. | September 1st 2012 |
| More Soap, Less Shampoo | F4+ | Andy Dunford | Climb the wall and thin flake right of 'Samphire and Steel' at the righthand end of the Veranda area. | September 8th 2012 |
