Disinformation | New Routes by Crag
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New Routes by Crag ~ Amphitheatre Roofs
| Route Name | Grade | First Ascentionist | Description | Date Climbed |
| Rameses Cubed | F7b+ | Pete Oxley | A spectacular and very powerful proposition. Start as for breathe the Pressure. Amble up the slabby lower groove then break out right to a high ledge on the right side of this bay. A pocket sequence leads quickly to a blank zone, the key moves at the lip involve a three dimensional Egyptian ( hence the name! ), and a wild slap. Rapidly pull over on improving holds to 2BB belay 3m higher, reverse | July 17th 2005 |
| Recursion | HVS 5a | Rob Kennard and Jon Howell | Climb the large corner left of Evening Slab to the roof. An exposed move around the arete gains a deep break(thread). Make a brisk pull, up and right, to better holds and the top. Belay from the abseil stake and poor wires. | September 15th 2007 |
| Granny Lifts Car | F7b+ | Pete Oxley | The strange alien face made of tree bowl holes 5m left of Let Ya Bones Hang. An innocuous looking route that in reality packs some explosive moves. Start from a square ledge as for LYBH, 1BB. 6BR?s. Swing out left and up an easy white scoop left of a flying buttress to a rest beneath a roof aven. Lean out from the aven and make reflex power pulls to gain juggy pockets half way. More positive holds lead with sustained interest over the lip. 2bb immediately, best to reverse for gear. | January 23rd 2005 |
| Hyperbole | HVS 5a | Rob Kennard & Alex More | A good varied climb, taking in some interesting geological features. Start immediately left of the amphitheatre descent route, just right of an ar?te. Climb to a prominent cave; pull out of the cave via thin cracks in the slab to gain the roof. A step up and right gains a niche(good but hard-won protection), from which tricky moves gain the left-hand tree- bole, and the top. | May 13th 2006 |
| Extraordinary Rendition | E1 5C | Rob Kennard & Alex More | Start just left of the ar?te (left of Hyperbole) | May 13th 2006 |
| Pussy Galore | VS 4B | Rob Kennard & Alex More | Start just right of the descent route, in a right-facing corner that forms the left hand side of a bay. Climb easily up the corner on very rough rock to the small roof. Steep moves on slightly dubious jugs gain a rest before the final move to the amphitheatre. | May 13th 2006 |
| Too Driven | HS | Ben Stokes OS Solo | A pleasant though escapable climb immediately right of the descent route. Start 3m left of Pussy Galore around the ar?te at a thin flake. Follow the flake until it fades. Tricky moves lead slightly right then left to the deep break. Step left, and pull over the small roof using the first of two flakes. Finish easily on slightly dubious rock. | June 17th 2006 |
| Jurassic Coast Pimp | E1 5b | Ben Stokes, Mark Williams | This well protected route tackles the right side of the huge Il Pirata roof at a surprisingly amenable grade. Roughly in the centre of the Il Pirata bay is a deep, blocky flake. Belay 2m right of the flake at good foot ledges. Follow thin flakes and a slab to the breaks. Lean out and follow a line of huge jugs to the lip of the roof. Pull over using undercuts. Finish with care on slightly dubious rock. | June 17th 2006 |
| Carbon Footprint | HVS 5b | Rob Kennard, James Dunlop and John Howell | Climbs the obvious deep cleft on the right hand end of the bay, right of Jurassic Coast Pimps. Climb the easy left facing corner to the fissure through the roof. A combination of thrutching and gurning gains the upper groove, and the top. | June 17th 2006 |
| 4 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you... | E2 5b | Marti Hallett, Rob Kennard and Alex More | A bold route. 10m left of Extraordinary Rendition is an alcove feature formed by right and left facing corners. Start just left of this. Climb easily, but protection-less up the slabby wall. A steeper section below the roof provides the crux(bold)moves. Steep but easier moves then lead through the obvious break in the roof. | June 30th 2006 |
| Bolt Free | HS 4c | Steve Taylor, Mark Williams | The obvious weakness through the narrow section of roof 4m right of Jurassic Coast Pimp. Climb the easy slab to the roof. Pull over past a small niche (good wires) to a | June 17th 2006 |
| Svengali | E3 6a | Rob Kennard and James Dunlop | Climbs the overhang immidiately right of Jurassic Coast Pimps. Climb to the roof as for JCP, then tackle the crack in the roof formed by a 'pancake' feature( good thread). Make a hard rock-over onto the wall above( hidden Rock 1). | June 24th 2006 |
| MC hammer | VS 4c | Rob Kennard and James Dunlop | An eliminate and escapable pitch, just left of the descent. Climb as for Hyperbole to the thread at the cave, then make tricky moves up and right to an obvious undercut. Easier climbing leads up a right facing corner to the top. | June 24th 2006 |
| Mojo-Pin | VS 4c | Rob Kennard, Marti Hallett and Alex More | A quality slab-climb, recommended! 50m left of the ampitheatre descent is a deep bay, the right hand side of which forms a slab that runs the full height of the cliff. Start on the right hand side of the slab, at a groove in the arete. Climb the groove, then make tricky moves up and left onto the slab-proper. Delicate moves lead to a horizontal break and a series of fossil 'coral' holds on steeper rock. Exit to a clean cut finish and stake belay. | June 30th 2006 |
| Southern Stutter | E1 5a | Dave Simmonite and Steve Taylor | A good companion route to Mojo Pin, with a very bold and thin finish. Start in the deep groove on the right hand side of the bay left of Mojo Pin. Pull out rightwards onto the slab and climb up, past a flake/ groove, to the bulge. Climb up and right past a wobbly spike to a slab. Finish boldly up a line 2 metres left of Mojo-Pin to a clean ledge and stake belay. | July 23rd 2006 |
| Stalinist Regime | HVS 5a | Steve Taylor and Dave Simmonite | Much easier than appearances suggest. Start in the deep groove on the left hand side of the bay left of Mojo Pin. Climb the groove and pull out left onto a thin slab. Climb up to excellent gear beneath the roof then move left to pull over the roof using good flakes to a belay ledge up and left. | July 23rd 2006 |
| The Poet and the thief | VS 4b | Alex More, Rob Kennard | Climbs the slab between Mojo-Pin and Southern Stutter. Climb the slab, good small wires, to the break. Load the break and head over the coral fangs on positive incuts. Exit to a clean cut finish and stake belay. | July 24th 2006 |
| The Gift | HVS 5b | Steve Taylor, Scott Titt | The slab and hanging groove right of Carbon Footprint | November 5th 2006 |
| Jaykay | HVS 4c | Rob Kennard and Scott Titt | Climbs through the roofs right of Dry Your Eyes Mate. Starting at the left facing corner, climb to a steepening, then traverse airily around the arete and go up to a deep break. Tricky moves up and slightly right gains the roof, from which a long traverse left gains easy ground. | November 5th 2006 |
| Evening Slab | Severe | Steve Taylor and Rob Kennard | At the west end of the crag, scramble down until a prominent abseil stake can be found. An abseil from here will set you at the foot of a pyramid shaped slab.Climb the lower black wall on good edges and pockets until a balancy section gains a deep horizontal break. Ascend the face just left of the vague corner. | April 20th 2007 |
| Lulworth New Order | VS 4c | Steve Taylor and Rob Kennard | Takes the right hand side of the slab, up a left-trending corner. Layback and bridge up the corner until a steepening forces a move leftwards, where a short steep corner gains the abseil-line and the top. | April 20th 2007 |
| Cuzco | E1 5b | Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor | Right of LNO is an obvious crack in the roof.Belay beneath the crack in the roof, in a slight corner with a large jammed block in it. Layback awkward left-facing flakes until the roof can be gained. Pull strenuously over on positive holds, and climb the short wall to the abseil stake. | April 20th 2007 |
| Ghost of You | VS 4b | Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor | Right of 'Cuzco' is an overhang with a distinctive 'Africa-shaped' flake in it. The break in the roof to the left of the overhang is taken by this route. Belay at a flat-topped spike on black rock. Climb the wide corner(better climbing than it looks), until a move right gains some large jammed blocks. Once level with the roofs, trend left to a clean exit and the abseil stake. | April 20th 2007 |
| Lesbian Spank Inferno | E3 6a | Rob Kennard and Jon Howell | Left of Recursion is a large strip roof with a diagonal crack in it. This route climbs the 2m roof left of the diagonal crack. Climb the delicate arete/ wall, to the roof. Arrange bomber gear, then make a powerful pull out to a huge jug on the lip. A hard and bold rock-over gains the upper-wall and a leftwards exit. | September 15th 2007 |
| Ouzo Envy | VS 4c | Jon Howell and Rob Kennard | The grooved arete left of Evening Slab. Climb the lower groove until a bulge allows the upper groove to be gained, which is climbed to the deep break. Climb the compact wall, left slightly to the top. Belay on the abseil stake and poor wires. | September 15th 2007 |
| Plwmp | Severe | Jon Howell and Rob Kennard | Start at the far left end of the strip roof taken by Lesbian Spank Inferno. The left arete of the large slab is split by an easy groove. Climb this, with a tricky move at half height. Above the break move right to extend the fun! | September 15th 2007 |
| September Sessions | VS 4b | Alex More , Ian Gamblin | A fine line that weaves its way between Evening Slab and LNO. An easy start on small wires leads to a tricky move over the bulge and to the break. From here its loose but easy. | September 29th 2007 |
| Fear of Litigation | E1 5b | Steve Taylor, Rob Kennard | The flake and roof just left of Extraordinary Rendition. Climb the wall with ease to the roof. A couple of powerful pulls round the roof lead to a small alcove, followed by easier climbing to the ledge above. | September 27th 2008 |
| Mansion Pond | E2 5b | Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor | A sustained and interesting route up the left side of the bay, right of the Mojo-Pin slab. Technical bridging(small wires) leads to a final difficult move to gain the roof. Swing right over the roof on deep pockets to a solid upper wall. | September 27th 2008 |
| Mankini Biscuit | E2 5c | Rob Kennard and Steve Taylor | Centred on the thin crack that crosses the roof left of '4 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you...'Named in honour of Crazy Andy! | September 27th 2008 |
| Evie | E2 5b | Ed Babington, Rob Kennard | Takes the break in the roof right of the 'Africa-Flake' roof, right of Ghost of You. Start in a sentry-box, climb to a steepening, arrange some gear then go diagonally rightwards(bold) until a wobbly jammed block is reached. Move back leftwards the finally heave through the crack in the roof. | June 19th 2009 |
